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 Posted: Thu 13:45, 29 Aug 2013 Post subject: Distress to impress |
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Distress to impress
Designers will go to extreme lengths to create an old look,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Janice Breen Burns reports.
Fashion's fixation with vintage styling and worn-in looks will dominate summer trends. More than 50 catwalk shows and an exhibition of another 100 collections at Sydney's Australian Fashion Week proved designers just can't shake off their fascination with ancient history.
Many designs shown during AFW,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which ended yesterday, either looked like they were conceived in another time, or were deliberately left raw,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], shredded, or,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], in the case of denim, doctored and pocked to appear old.
"They've got an aversion to stuff that looks new,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," says Fashion shoe distributor Rohan Burdett of the customers for his Kowalski collection of classic 1940s and '50s-style leather sneakers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], boxing and military boots. The label is Spanish and includes men's and women's styles that are roughly scratched and sandpapered to get that "authentic" heirloom look. "It all goes together with the distressed look in clothes," Burdett says. "The distressed denim thing is so strong."
It also gathering new momentum in mainstream fashion, with the oldest-looking jeans demanding,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and getting, the highest prices - from $200 up to $600. The cost is partly justified for extra processes: tumbling with rocks, washing in acid, slashing with blades. They're random techniques that make an authentic "one only" out of every jean,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and that's the most desirable look across all areas of fashion right now,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], even if it is mass-produced.
For this week's AFW shows, designers shredded silk chiffon and georgette into ribbon and cut muslin,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], tulle and organza into raw petals and rough tongues. They left hemlines unhemmed and the edging on necklines and armholes was often deliberately frayed. Styling in many collections, particularly Lisa Ho's faded retro prints, Jason Brunsdon's "ode to Maria Callas" and Wayne Cooper's prom-night party dresses,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], also reflected the kind of '50s,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], '60s, and '70s vintage designs commanding premium prices in vintage boutiques all over the world.
According to fashion agent Mary Thomaidis, representing Japanese designs made from the fabric of old kimonos,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "authentic,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], vintage"can swing a sale.
"No two pieces are the same,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," Thomaidis says of designer Sonoko Ozawa's delicate, faded print frocks, vests and blouses made by unpicking and reusing the fabric of old kimonos.
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